Buyer's guide

Buying this STI

What to check on a 2008–2014 STI, what the mods on this one mean for you, and how the paperwork works in Florida. It's long because I'd rather answer your questions up front.

What to check on any 2008–2014 STI

This generation (the "GR" hatch) uses the EJ257 turbo engine and a 6-speed manual. The 6-speed is stout. Most of the risk is in the engine and in how the car was treated. Here's what an experienced buyer looks at, and where this car stands on each.

Engine health

• Compression or leak-down test. The EJ257's known weak spots are ringland failure and rod bearings, especially on cars that were tuned badly or driven hard cold. A compression or leak-down test is the single best check. Any decent Subaru or performance shop can do one in about an hour. You're welcome to arrange one.
• Cold start. Ask to hear it start cold. Listen for knocking that gets louder as revs rise. A little lifter tick at startup is normal for an EJ, but a deep knock isn't.
• Oil. Pull the dipstick. Look for milky oil (coolant) or a burnt smell. Ask how much oil it uses between changes.
• Smoke. A puff of blue smoke on startup or under boost can point to turbo seals or the PCV system. This car runs an IAG air/oil separator, which keeps oil out of the intake.

Turbo and boost

• On the test drive, boost should build smoothly and hold steady. Watch for hesitation, sputter, or boost dropping off at the top.
• The Accessport can show live boost, knock, and fuel trims. Ask to see a datalog from a pull.

Drivetrain

• Clutch: new on this car (ACT Xtreme with a Streetlite flywheel, 2026). An upgraded clutch grabs harder than stock, which is normal.
• Gearbox: shifts should be smooth with no grinding in any gear, cold or warm. Trans and diffs were serviced with Motul fluids at 158,000 miles.
• DCCD: the center diff dial on the console should change the lock indicator on the dash. Check that both auto modes and manual mode respond.
• Noises: a whine or clunk from the rear diff or CV joints on turns is worth asking about.

Body and chassis

• This is a Florida car, so road-salt rust isn't the usual concern. Still look under the rear quarters and subframes.
• The paint is a fresh repaint in factory Obsidian Black Pearl (October 2025). Ask what prompted it if you're curious.
• Coilovers: check for leaking shocks and even ride height side to side.

What the mods mean for you

• The tune. The car runs a Torqued Performance e-tune: a tuner built the map for this car's specific parts using datalogs. That matters with an intake, BOV, and exhaust like this car has, because those change airflow.
• The Accessport. A Cobb Accessport is "married" to one car. This one stays with the car and comes to you. Don't uninstall it: that puts the car back on the stock map, which doesn't match the intake. If you ever want changes, a tuner can revise the map.
• Fuel. The STI needs premium from the factory, and a tuned one is no exception. Ask me what octane the tune was built on.
• Emissions and registration. Florida has no emissions or safety inspection. If you live in a state that does test emissions, check your local rules on aftermarket intakes and tunes before you buy.
• Insurance. Some insurers ask about modifications. It's worth calling yours with the VIN and the mod list before you buy.
• Original parts. The original JDM STI shift knob and OEM nav head unit come with it.

How a test drive works

1. Bring your driver's license and proof of insurance. I'll snap a photo of both and we'll fill out the one-page test drive form.
2. I'll ride along. We'll start cold if you'd like to hear it.
3. Plan on 15 to 20 minutes with some highway. Feel free to bring the inspection checklist.
4. If you want a shop inspection, we'll set a time and I'll drive it there or meet you.

How the paperwork works in Florida

Private sales in Florida are simple. Here's the whole process, start to finish.

At the sale

• Payment: cash, or a cashier's check we verify at the issuing bank.
• I sign over the Florida title, filling in your name, address, the sale price, and the date.
• We both sign two copies of the bill of sale, one for each of us.
• You get the keys, the Accessport, the included parts, and any receipts I have.
• The plate stays with me. In Florida, plates belong to the owner, not the car. Plan how you'll get it home: transfer a plate you already own, get a temporary tag, or we can meet at the tax collector's office and do it there.

After the sale (your part, Florida buyers)

• Get Florida insurance on the car (PIP and property damage are required to register).
• Within 30 days, visit your county tax collector with the signed title, your ID, proof of insurance, and a completed HSMV 82040 (application for title).
• Pay sales tax there (6% state plus your county's surtax) along with the title and registration fees. Waiting longer than 30 days adds a late fee.

Out-of-state buyers

Bring the signed Florida title and bill of sale to your home state's DMV. You'll usually pay sales tax there, not in Florida. Some states require a VIN inspection or emissions test, so check before you make the trip.

Questions worth asking me

• Who did the tune, and can I see a recent datalog?
• Who installed the clutch, and do you have the receipt?
• What's the oil change interval and what oil do you run?
• When were the spark plugs, timing belt, and water pump last done?
• Has it been tracked or autocrossed?
• Why are you selling?

Text 850.585.1245 with any of these, or ask in person.